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When looking to assemble a paddle for the first time, it can seem daunting and complex. However it doesn't have to be and once you have done it you will probably do it for your self from then on. The following is a simple step by step guidance.

Read the instructions through before you start so you know what you are doing and what comes next.

Equipment needed
Junior hacksaw
Glass paper
Tape measure
Hot air blower (ideally a paint stripper but a hair dry can work)

Materials needed
Acetone – eg. Cellulose thinners from Halfords, do not use nail varnish remover as whilst these are usually acetone based the other additives are detrimental for this purpose
Resin – Araldite is a good option as it is readily available, is in a safe “paste” form and also due to the paste it stays where it is put whilst it cures – it is also an Epoxy resin which is ideal

Health and safety notes
You should undertake the work in a well ventilated location, handle the acetone with care it is cacogenic and if you get it in a cut or in your eyes you will know about it and it could mean a trip to the hospital. Use eye protection and wear gloves. Follow any further precautions given on the packaging for the product.

When using the hot air blower - be careful not to cook your hands - or anyone else's. It is possible to overheat the shaft so do not hold the blower too close and only heat the shrink sleeve enough for it to fit. If using a hair dryer - this may not be hot enough - find a better one, do hot burn the motor out.

Stage 1 – getting the correct length Assemble the shaft and the blades (and handle for C1 paddles). They should go together easily as Galasport blades are machined to fit their shafts, however some minor rubbing of the blade spigots may be required (if this is excessive consult Cool Blue Canoes who will advise. Check the length against that required, identify how much the shaft will need shortening by.
For straight kayak shafts, mark the amount the shaft is to be shortened at one end and cut with the hacksaw ensuring the cut is straight.
For kayak cranks, cut from the centre joint (the side without the spigot fitted)
For C1 tapers – it can be cut from either end but cutting a large amount may lead to the handle or blade not fitting
For C1 cranks – cut from the handle end otherwise the crank will not be the correct distance from the blade.

Stage 2 – fitting the hand grip (not necessary for those shafts with built in ovals and cranks)
For straight shafts a plastic oval is provided with shrink sleeving. For kayak paddles cut 2 x 25 mm lengths, for C1 paddles just one is required - place these to one side you will need these later. Place the oval in the correct position for the control hand, place the long length of shrink sleeving over the oval with an equal amount over lapping the plastic oval either side. Apply the hot air gun to shrink the sleeving to fit. Warning – do not apply heat to where your hand is; do not apply heat for an extended period to one area. To obtain the best results, apply the heat evenly all around the sleeve and all along its length.

Stage 3 – preparing to fit the first blade
Remove all sharp edges and burrs from the cut area of the shaft. Very slightly abrade the inside of the shaft. Clean the surfaces to be resined with the acetone. Once the acetone has fully evaporated then proceed to the next stage. (Note for marathon, river racing and some other paddles, the shaft fits into a socket in the blade - the same process is followed but for some blades a small piece of carbon or carbon-Kevlar wrapped around the shaft will improve the fit.

Stage 4 – fitting the first blade
Slip one of the 25mm long shrink sleeves over the end of the shaft. Mix the araldite as per the packaging instructions sufficient for securing one blade. Apply to the spigot of the blade that will be closest to the control hand oval. Make sure that there is good coverage all around the spigot. Place the blade in to the shaft and position it correctly for the oval or the crank. Wipe off any surplus resin. If resin has spilled anywhere it could be cleaned off with the acetone - warning: acetone can dissolve artificial fibres so be extra careful with clothes. Place the assembled shaft and blade in a safe location where the alignment of the blade to the oval/crank cannot be altered/knocked etc. When cured then proceed to stage 5.

Stage 5 – fitting the second blade (kayaks)
Straight shafts – repeat stages 3 and 4 for the second blade but now the alignment will create the feather so time must be taken to get this right. Again leave it somewhere where the position of the blade cannot be altered until cured.
Cranks – repeat stage 3 and 4 again aligning the blade correctly to the crank. Once cured then repeat the resining procedure for the central shaft split – it is now that the feather is applied and therefore care has to be taken to get this just right.

Finally to have a good quality finish place the short lengths of heat shrink over the joint between the blades and the shaft and apply heat.

Stage 5 – fitting the handle (C1s)
Apply resin to end of the shaft and fit the handle, make sure it is correctly aligned with the paddle. If you wish to help prevent water ingress to the shaft and increase the resining area, a small piece of foam (as used for kitting the boat out) can be cut to fit the inside of the shaft end and resin this in place. To cut the foam to have a precision fit force the shaft end with a twisting motion into the foam.

Finally to have a good quality finish place the short length of heat shrink over the joint between the blade and the shaft and apply heat.

Happy paddling!

Removing blades from shafts
This is far more difficult than assembling them in the first place. To remove the blade one has to break down the resin bond between the blade spigot and the shaft. The usual way is by using heat. However in breaking down the resin holding the paddle together it is very possible to break down the resin in the shaft, the blade or both.

Start by removing any tape or shrink sleeve over the joint area. Now using a heat gun (a hair dry will not provide enough heat) gentle heat the shaft all around and along about 75mm from the visible joint. Now let it cool. This heat cycle breaks the resin bond down and a second application of heat should now release the joint (but no guarantees here - sometimes it just doesn't work). Now heat the area up for the second time and gentle try to turn the blade - as soon as you have movement then very gently but firmly wriggle the blade free.